Morris Magneto H5 Instructions, ’36-’69
Big Twins Morris Magneto
Remove or loosen pushrods. Remove gearcase cover and intermediate gear. Insert new cluster gear, small side in. If gear does not go in flush with the gasket surface, your gearcase cavity has a rib which must be removed sufficiently to clear.
Remove gear from bottom of magneto. Be careful not to remove coupler shell (if shell does come off, spring tang goes in the deeper slot, and spring winds CCW). Install magneto and mount assembly into generator port, loosely secured by your generator bolts, in the pair of holes which work best for the positioning you want. Carefully install gear, nut, and washer back on to the magneto shaft, using loctite to prevent loosening; threads must be grease and oil free. Torque to 35 ft/lbs.
Remove magneto cap. Rotate magneto until the small cam is located CCW of the cam follower, and is beginning to break the points, as pictured. This is correct front cylinder advanced timing. Turn your engine until the rear piston just begins its descent; the mark which appears in the timing inspection hole is the proper front cylinder advanced timing position. If both front tappets are not down on the heel of the cam, you are on the wrong stroke, and will need to rotate the engine another 360 °.
Install cluster gear so that engine position and magneto
position are synchronized. Re-assemble gearcase cover and pushrods, taking care to use same pair
of bolt holes in the magneto mount.
Bolts must not bottom out in holes. Secure the nuts and heavy washers
holding the magneto flange in the advanced timing position as shown. Static
timing is all that is required. If you wish, you can check for 'points open' by
using a good digital ohmmeter; reading will increase by about .3 ohms.
Re-install cap (make sure coil springs line up), and tighten so gasket does not
compress more than 25%. Stud on side of magneto is used to "kill"
magneto with a grounding toggle switch or lever (p/n KSL). Do not connect to
your 12-volt system!
Checking timing after motor has turned:
Since impulse spring is in the wind-up phase, it will be necessary to turn
motor until magneto ‘clicks’, then back the motor up to your timing mark. With the front cylinder on compression
stroke, ‘click’ should occur when rear piston has dropped approx. 5/16”.
Stuff to know: This magneto was designed to start with a moderate
kick; hard kicks may actually hamper starting. Unit is also fully compatible
with electric start. The long-lasting OEM-type points in your magneto have been
set at .015, and will require no attention for years. When
replacement is necessary, use Morris p/n P5 and condensor
p/n P6. Use only original type cap, gasket, points and condenser.
Initial spark plug gap, .025". Due to the hot
spark, you can expect the gap to burn larger somewhat faster than with a
battery ignition. Use of a single-fire module, Morris p/n MSF, may help
prolong plug life. We recommend Autolite 4275 or 4316
spark plugs for older H-D heads (short reach), or 4265 for long reach, as used
on most aftermarket heads, and ’76 -up stock H-D heads. Use copper or stainless
steel solid core (non-suppression) spark plug wires (Morris p/n MWS).
Patent pending.