1. Set your engine on the correct stroke & position for installation, as follows:
a) Remove your rear spark plug only.
b) Kick until you feel front cylinder compression; rear piston will be on the way up.
c) Continue turning the motor until the rear piston gets to the top. At this point, the correct front cylinder advanced timing mark will be just appearing in the back of the inspection hole. Continue until it is centered.
2. a) Remove drive housing plate, spiral ring, spacer and gear. Determine which pair of bolts provided (1/4-20 or 1/4-24) fit your engine. Slip housing into distributor hole; with bolt holes aligned, check for clearance in front, sliding a piece of paper through. It should clear your crankcase as is, but engine case castings can vary somewhat; remove any interfering high spots from your cases. b) When bolting down drive housing, hold-down bolts must not bottom out in your cases; tighten one at a time and check. While you're at it, tighten then back off bolts a few times to seat the boltheads in the housing. c) On some late H-D stock Shovelhead cases, you may need to drill and tap the second 'hold-down' screw hole if it was not done from the factory. We can furnish tech tips on this process; angle drill may be required.
3. Clean all threads and securely tighten down the drive housing bolts, using loctite. Reinstall the gear, spacer and spiral ring.
Pour light oil into the housing, up to the middle step (bike up, off kickstand); do not overfill. Now put on the gasket, housing plate
and back bolt, just snug for now.
4. Remove magneto cap. Set magneto rotor so points are just opening on the narrow lobe (while the drive shaft turns in the normal direction, note that the gears turn the magneto itself backwards compared to your old ignition; in other words, narrow cam lobe should be just clockwise of the cam follower, as in picture). This is the proper position for advanced timing; install the magneto and gasket, securing with the nuts and heavy washers provided, in this position. Visual static timing is all that is required. Timing can be dialed in exactly by using Morris Magneto p/n KATT, timing and testing tool. We do not recommend the 'cellophane' method. Finish tightening the back plate bolt. NOTE: If magneto head was previously installed, you will need to go past your timing mark until magneto clicks, indicating that the impulse spring has been tripped (at approximately 5/16" or 8mm past rear piston TDC, but on front cylinder compression stroke), then back up the motor in high gear and re-locate timing mark. Install cap if off, making sure coil springs line up, and tighten so gasket does not compress more than 25%. Stud on side of magneto is used to "kill" magneto with a grounding toggle switch or lever (p/n KSL). Do not connect to your 12-volt system!
Stuff to know: This magneto was designed to start with a moderate kick; hard kicks may actually hamper starting. Unit is also fully compatable with electric start. The long-lasting OEM-type points in your magneto have been set at .015, and will require no attention for years. When replacement is necessary, specify left-hand points, Morris p/n P5L and condensor p/n P6. Gap accurately. Use only original type cap, gasket, points and condensor. Initial spark plug gap, .025". Due to the hot spark, you can expect the gap to burn larger somewhat faster than with a battery ignition. Use of a single-fire module, Morris p/n MSF, may help prolong plug life. We recommend Autolite 4275 or 4316 spark plugs for older H-D heads (short reach), or 4265 for long reach, as used on most aftermarket heads, and all ’76 -up stock H-D heads. Use copper or stainless steel solid core (non-suppression) spark plug wires (Morris p/n MWS).
US Patents 4191157, D375509, applicable pat's pend.
